Marseille

Marseille is France's oldest city and its biggest Mediterranean port, a working-class counterpoint to Paris with a rougher, sun-bleached energy shaped by centuries of immigration from North Africa and southern Europe. It sits around a natural harbor, the Vieux-Port, backed by hills and the Calanques limestone cliffs just outside the city. Locals describe a rivalry with Paris built on Marseille being older, poorer, and prouder of it.

Bouillabaisse, a saffron-scented fish stew traditionally made with the day's unsellable catch, originated here and is still served ceremonially in two courses. Pastis, an anise-flavored aperitif, is the local drink of choice over wine in the afternoon heat. The city runs on a different rhythm than Paris, expect a slower, more informal approach to service and scheduling.